Transkaroo: simple and superb

 14 June 2023

 

TRANSKAROO

1 Morrison Road, The Island, Groot Brakrivier

 

Five years ago, and for our 10^th wedding anniversary, the wife and I ate a slap-up Michelin starred dinner on the ancient city walls of Dubrovnik. On our 15^th anniversary we ate simple, delicious South African fare in a repurposed railway station building.

 

This was our first visit to Transkaroo in about 7 years but before that we were frequent diners at what was then one of the only consistently good and worthwhile restaurants in the stretch between Mossel Bay and George, and I can report that the food as good and satisfying as it ever was.

 

The room is large, wooden panelled and kind of old-fashioned and not very attractive in the cold light of day but the night-time dim lighting creates a warm atmosphere beautifully set tables, with dark blue table cloths and brilliant glassware.

 

We brought our own bottle of bubbly to toast our marriage and were charged corkage of R80.

The shared starter was two “skilpadjies” (sheep’s liver) (R80) accompanied by a quenelle of onion marmalade. Extremely scrumptious and one of those South African classics I could possibly eat myself to death on, if not checked.

 

The wife’s main course was the lamb rib roll on mustardy potato purée  and with vegetables (R180.)  The meat fell off the bone and was hugely flavourful, the potato was creamy and the other elements were equally yummy.

 

My choice was 1 kg of sticky BBQ pork prime rib and fries (R205), and the meat also fell off the bone, the marinade was first class and the fries were proper.  

 

The portions were so generous that neither of us managed to clean our plates.  The meat dishes were simple but done to perfection.

 

It’s trite to say that tasty simplicity is often more challenging to achieve than complicated, fussy dishes and when simplicity triumphs like this, one luxuriates in a serene sense of sated satisfaction.

 

We shared what Transkaroo calls a milk tart brûlée (R85), topped with elaborate spun sugar work, a perfectly crunchy lid and a light, smooth, creamy crème.

 

The bill, before tip, came to an extremely reasonable R615,00.

 

Sometimes one just wants a good, simple, tasty plate of food and this is what tonight’s dinner was about. It says something about the chef, if you return after an absence of 7 years, that it’s every bit as agreeable as on the previous visits.