Blowing the budget at Aubergine

 11 July 2026

 

AUBERGINE

39 Barnet Street, Lower Gardens, Cape Town

 

It’s always satisfactory to bash two birds with one stone and this time it was  date night  and ticking a bucket list item: dinner at a Cape Town culinary institution that’s been around for about 30 years. In the early years of Aubergine’s existence, I didn’t go because I suspected that it was beyond my financial means, then it dropped off the radar until now when my earlier apprehension regarding the budget busting reality of its dining experience was confirmed. I had to siphon off pennies, from my household allowance to save up for this splurge.

 

We like reservations at around 18h30 because it usually means we’d be eating somewhere between 19h00 and 19h30. We like Spain but haven’t quite absorbed the Spanish predilection for very late dinners.  

 

Our general experience is that we’re not the only people who like early reservations but tonight we stepped into an echoingly empty restaurant, as if I’d booked out the venue for extreme privacy, but by and by another couple arrived, followed by an aggressively joyous birthday party dressed up for the Met Ball. 

 

It was a winter’s night, albeit not too shabby weatherwise, but we thought this was a poor showing for a venerable restaurant like Aubergine on a Saturday night. The emptiness of the space gave us a good look at it.

 

The restaurant is houses in two adjoining very old buildings, presumably once dwellings, in what is otherwise a light industrial neighbourhood with Dunkley Square not too far away.

 

The kitchen is on the left as one enters and one passes a rather lovely, cosy bar and lounge space before descending a couple of steps into the main dining space. There’s also a mezzanine with four tables.

 

The design style and feel is updated Old Cape Dutch cottage with wooden tables and chairs, elegant decorations and a cast iron stove in the centre of the rear wall. There’s a garden setting as well.

 

We were welcomed with great good humour and hospitality (as if we were the only patrons) and the sommelier was attentive and gently funny, though quietly aghast at my refusal to drink wine even when I tried to mitigate his distress by pointing out that I‘m still partial to bubbly and of course a good Scotch. He didn’t try a hard sell on the wine, and shared his knowledge and keenness as if we were likely to order bottles of wine rather than just by the glass. 

 

A strong constitution is advised, or the assurance of a substantial trust fund, when studying the wine list (a book, actually) that makes one wonder whether  a visit to the ophthalmologist is overdue, as you can’t quite believe you’re seeing what you’re apparently seeing, i.e. it’s quite expensive to order wine at Aubergine. As tough-minded as Von-Mari is, she balked at paying these prices.

 

Seeing as how one can’t have date night without bubbly, we started with a glass (R170) of MCC each.  I continued on that journey and Von-Mari ordered a carafe of Albarino, a white wine cultivar from the Spanish Basque Country (R200).  

 

There are two menu options,  degustation or a la carte menu. The options on the latter seemed more agreeable.

 

The bread course consisted of two slices each of delectable home baked bread, hummus and artisanal butter. 

 

The amuse bouche was a seafood broth type thing with crumbed white fish. (Unfortunately, I’d already eaten half the broth before I remembered I was supposed to take a photograph). Von-Mari thought the white bait tasted too much like fish but that wasn’t an issue for me. It was light, flavourful and with good contrast of texture.

 

Von-Mari’s starter of Cape bouillabaisse (R256) with squid and Kingklip didn’t blow her hair back. She’s not a fan of Kingklip, the squid was too chewy and there was a disconcertingly metallic flavour that lingered on the palate after each mouthful. Not a win. 

 

On the other hand, my seared Yellow-fin tuna and smoked Albacore tuna starter (R275) was sublime, with perfectly cooked tuna that melted in the mouth, and a delightful array of savoury reductions and acidic elements. I’ve never eaten albacore before and have no clue whether the rubbery texture is on point but it was tasty.

 

Von-Mari, ever the happy carnivore, chose the main course of pasture raised beef prime rib, demi glaze with lemon pepper, confit potato, mushroom and glazed shallots (R325).

 

For once I went for red meat too and chose the lamb shank ravioli and lamb loin medallions, with garlic puree, seasonal garden greens olive oil and marjoram sauce (R295).

 

I’m not that knowledgeable on ravioli but I was faintly disappointed. The filling was tasty yet the pasta seemed a tad thick and clunky to me. The lamb loin, vegetables and intensely flavourful broth were luscious and rescued the dish.

 

Von-Mari was very happy with her dish, with beef perfectly cooked to order, toothsome, al dente vegetables and a jus with exuberant depth of flavour. 

 

Both of us chose the crème brûlée dessert (R235) and, as so often happens, this was kind of the peak of the meal. The creme was perfectly smooth and unctuous, the brûlée was satisfactorily brittle and the subtle but manifest infusion of orange flavour was a joy. The light, smooth mango sorbet was otherworldly good for the soul.

 

We thought the dessert prices were taking the piss, though. The cheese selection and chocolate fondant were respectively R285,00 and R275,00. The tropical gastrique at R255,00 was the cheapest dessert. We’re accustomed to astronomical prices for alcoholic drinks but charging main course prices for desserts is a tad beyond the pale, regardless of the quality.

 

I finished with an espresso and we were blessed with two small chocolates.

 

The bill came to R2387,00 (with the service charge graciously included) of which I’d paid R200,00 when making the reservation. Von-Mari pointed out that our share of the bill for dinner at Le Bistrot de Jan had been less.

 

We enjoyed our evening at Aubergine and ate well, minor issues notwithstanding, but my verdict is that the food was competently prepared and presented, as one would expect, but that it wasn’t the kind of meal or experience  that’s particularly memorable, other than perhaps the dessert. Our server was surprised to hear that we were locals, telling us that the restaurant’s patrons were mostly tourists and with these prices we could believe that. Ultimately, the food wasn’t spectacular enough to motivate us to pay that much again on a return visit.